Isaac wallace



(No Model.)

I. 'WALLAGH.

SHIRT. No. 264,802, Patented Sept. 19, 1882.

I I-ramsrzivr,

N PETERs mwummw. Washington ac.

PATENT OFFICE.

ISAAC WALLACH, OF NEWT YORK, N. Y.

SHIRT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No; 264,802, dated September 19, 1882.

Application filed July 3, 1882. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, ISAAC \VALLAGH, or" New York city, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shirts; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, reference being had tothe accompanyingdrawings, making part of this application.

My invention relates to an improvement in that kind of shirts or analogous garments in which a reversible collar is employed that is, a collar which is adapted tobe either turned down inside of the shirt and out of sight, (so that, if desired, a false or separate collarcan be applied to the neck-band of the garment,) or turned outwardly and over the neekband of the garment, so as to appear outside of the garment.

Previous to my invention it has been common to have a shirt made with the reversible collar attached at its root to the neckband of the garment, and it has also been suggested to have such a collar secured at its root to the body fabric of the shirt at a line located below the lower edge "ofthe usual neckband, and each of these two modes of construction (and others which may herethfore have been known) have certain alleged advantages and defects.

I propose by my present improvement to radically change the plan of construction of that kind of garments alluded to, and to provide for use a shirt or other garment which shall have nggparate neclgband and collar, as has heretofore beei'l'customary, and which shall not embody any of the defects which arise from having the collar stitched to either the neckband or to the body part of the shirt; and to-these main ends and objects my invention consists in' a shirt or other garment provided with a reversiblecollar and having the collar and neckliand formed of one and the same piece of fabric.

To enable those'skilled in the art to make and use my invention, 1 will now proceed to more fully explain the same, referring by letters to the accompanying drawings, forming paitof this specification, and in which I have shown two modifications of, or, in other words, two ways of carrying out, my said invention.

Figure 1 is an elevation of the upper part ofan ordinary blue-flannel shirt made according to my invention, and showing the garment with the collar turned inout of sight, the contour of the collar being indicated by the dotted lines. Fig. 2 is a similar view, but with the collar turned outwardly over the neckband portion and then downwardly. Fig. 3 is a partial vertical section at the line 90 w of Fig. 2, enlarged scale, showing the arrangement or plan of construction more explicitly. Fig. 4 is a sectional view similar to Fig. 3, but showing another way of carryingout my invention. Fig. 5 is a view, smaller scale, of the modification seen at Fig. 4, but showing the collar standing up. Fig. 6 is a similar view of the said modification, but with the collar turned down inside the shirt.

WVherever the same part is shown in different figures it will be found designated by the same letter of reference.

In Figs. 1, 2, and 8, A represents the fabric composing the body portion of the shirt, and B is the stock or piece of fabric out of which I form both the reversible collar and neekband of the garment. This I do by cutting out the piece B of a proper size and shape, as shown, so that when one of its edges, 1), shall have been stitched tothe upper edge, e, of the body portion A of the shirt it may be folded over onto itself at the hinge-line e, and then stitched to itself near the edge 0 of the body at the line or pointf, the two plies or portions gand h forming or constituting a neckband, and the remaining portion of the piece B forming the collarproper. This collar portion of the piece B is by preference thickened up (to give it more body) by the addition of a supplemental piece of stuff, 1', stitched, along one of its sides and its two ends, to a portion of the perimeter of the collar portion of piece B and along its other side to the middle portion of B.

It will be seen that in the manner described the piece of fabric B is made to constitute both the neckband and a collar, the latter device being adapted to be either laid inside of and against the body portion Aof the garment, or turned outwardand folded over for show in the usual manner of using reversible collars.

It will also be seen thatnot onlyis the usual double turning in and seaming at the upper 2 aemsoa and lower edges of the neckband avoided but I is stitched to the other part of B along a line,

a band is produced which is neater, and over which the collar portion of the piece B will more easily turn and better fit than will a separate collar-piece over the usual separate neckband. At the same time the neckband and collar portions of the garment will fit better when the collar may be turned in and out of sight.

In that mode of carrying out my invention which I have thus far particularly described, and which is illustrated at Figs. 1, 2, and 3, it will be observed that the same side or surface of the fabric composing the piece B cannot be displayed at the outer side or surface of the neckband portion, and also at the exposed surface of the collar portion, when the latter shall be turned over and outward for use. This is of no moment one way or another in all cases where the garment is manufactured of stuff both sides of which present substantially the same appearance; but in cases where the garments may be made up of goods having decidedly different appearances on the wrong and right sides of the fabric it will be necessary in practicing my invention to follow the plan of carrying the same into effect illustrated at Figs. 4, 5, and 6, under which plan, it will be seen, I proceed somewhat diflerently.

In this modification of my invention I form the neckband and collar proper, as before, out of one piece, B butinstead ofsewing one edge of said piece to the upper edge, 0 of the body portion A of the shirt I first fold the root portion of B over onto itself to an extent sufficient to have the folded-over part equal in width to the contemplated neckband of the shirt. I then neatly seamthe upper edge, 0 of the body part of the garment to the piece B close to the fold-line of the folded-over portion, placing the parts, of course, so as to bring the right side of the neckband portion outermost. The folded-over neckband portion Z) of the piece B is hemmed over at its edge, and

c some distance below said edge, and from this line of stitching the collar portion proper of B is easily folded down inside of the shirt and out of sight when desired. As in the other modification of my invention, a part of the collar portion proper is thickened up by an .additional ply or piece of stuff, h ;bnt whether this be done or not the collar portion of B may be easily turned over and outward, and when worn as a turn-over collar to the garment it will have the right side of the fabric exposed to viewthat is to say, unlike the piece B, (seen at Figs. 1, 2, and 3,) the piece B (seen at Figs. 4,5, and 6,) will have the same side of the fabric exposed at'the outer surface of the neckband formed of said piece as is exposed at the exposed surface of the collar portion of said piece when the collar is worn outside the shirt.

Of course various other modifications of detail may be made, and the size and pattern of the collar and other parts may be varied without departing from the spirit of my invention, the gist of which rests in having the neckband and collar of the kind of garment mentioned made of one and the same piece of fabric, in contradistinct'ion to having the collar part proper cut and made up out of a separate piece of stock, as has always heretofore been the practice, so far as my knowledge of the prior state of the art extends.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

A shirt or other garment provided with a re- Versible collar, and having the said collar and the neckband of the garment composed of the same piece of fabric, substantially as set forth.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my my hand this 28th day of June, 1882.

I SAAG WALLAG H.

In presence of- LoUIs J. KATZMAN, EMANUEL \VALLACH. 

